Raw or Cooked? Extra Virgin Olive Oil in the Kitchen, from Soffritto to the Final Drizzle

Yes, extra virgin olive oil can also be used for cooking: its fats, mostly monounsaturated, stand up to heat better than those of seed oils. Heat does, however, reduce aromas and polyphenols, all the more as the temperature rises. That is why it is best to cook with it without ever letting it smoke or reusing it, and to add a raw drizzle at the end, where its character comes through most.

In many Italian kitchens there are two bottles. On the table sits the good extra virgin, the one for dressing. Next to the stove sits any old oil, the one for cooking. It is a habit born of an idea that dies hard: that extra virgin is too precious, or too delicate, for the flame.

Italian guidelines and research tell a different story. Extra virgin can be cooked, and cooked well. Heat does change something, though, and knowing what helps you use it better: in the pan when needed, raw when it counts.

In this guide we explain what happens to oil over the heat, when cooked oil really becomes a problem and how to choose the right oil for every moment of the dish.

Can you cook with extra virgin olive oil?

Yes. Extra virgin olive oil is made mainly of monounsaturated fats, which oxidize less than the polyunsaturated fats that many seed oils are rich in. For home frying, between 170 and 180 °C and always with fresh oil, the Italian guidelines call for no particular care over the type of oil: the choice can follow your taste.

The idea that extra virgin should not be heated may come from its price, or from the fact that its aromas come through better raw. But how well an oil holds up over the heat depends above all on its composition.

The CREA guidelines for healthy eating (in Italian) explain it clearly: precisely because of their high content of polyunsaturated fats, seed oils are more prone to oxidation than monounsaturated oils such as olive oil. The exceptions are a few oils, such as peanut oil, and blends designed specifically for frying.

For home frying, the same guidelines are pragmatic. Short cooking times, an ideal temperature of 170-180 °C, oil that is not reused: under these conditions the type of oil matters little, and you can choose according to taste. Extra virgin, in the pan as in the fryer, is a choice that holds up.

What is lost when oil heats up?

What is lost above all is aroma and part of the polyphenols, the natural antioxidants that give oil its bitterness and pungency. In a study by the University of Barcelona, an extra virgin olive oil heated in a pan lost 40% of its polyphenols at 120 °C and 75% at 170 °C. The higher the temperature, the steeper the drop.

The study, published in 2020 in the journal Antioxidants, simulated home cooking: oil heated in a pan at two temperatures, for short and longer times. What weighed most was the temperature, far more than the duration.

The most interesting finding, though, is another one. According to the authors, even after cooking the oil retained enough polyphenols to stay within the parameters of the European health claim. The claim is the one authorized by EU Regulation 432/2012: olive oil polyphenols contribute to the protection of blood lipids from oxidative stress. It applies to oils containing at least 5 mg of hydroxytyrosol and its derivatives per 20 g, and the effect is obtained with 20 g of olive oil a day.

Aromas, on the other hand, are the most fragile part. The notes of grass, artichoke and tomato are volatile compounds: with heat they are the first to go. That is why a drizzle of oil added at the end makes such a difference to the dish.

Is cooked oil bad for you?

No, if you use it the right way. The problem is not cooking itself, but oil that smokes, stays too long at high temperature or is reused: in these cases the fats break down. With the right heat, short times and always fresh oil, cooked extra virgin remains a good choice in the kitchen.

The CREA guidelines distinguish between techniques. Deep frying, with plenty of oil and short times, is fine when done correctly. Pan cooking, with a thin film of oil on the bottom, forms more oxidation products with any oil, olive oil included, probably because the oil is more exposed to air. And the oven, which has a better reputation than frying, can alter fats considerably, because it keeps them at high temperatures for a long time.

This does not mean giving up the pan or the oven. It means using the right flame and not leaving the oil on the heat longer than necessary.

Three signs tell you the oil is suffering: smoke, an acrid smell and a darkening color. If you see them, lower the flame or start again with fresh oil.

Frying oil should not be reused. And once cool, it should not be poured down the sink: take it to a used cooking oil collection point, so that it does not harm the environment.

When extra virgin is at its best raw

Raw, extra virgin gives everything: aroma, bitterness, pungency. That is where you recognize the character of each oil.

A swirl of raw oil transforms a legume soup, baked fish, grilled vegetables, a slice of still-warm bread. A few grams are enough, as long as they come at the end.

On bold dishes, such as legumes, grilled meats and soups, an intense fruity monocultivar Coratina holds its own. On delicate dishes, such as fish, raw seafood and seasonal vegetables, a medium fruity monocultivar Peranzana accompanies without overpowering. To help you find your way among the combinations, we have gathered our tips for pairing oil with food.

The simplest gesture remains the most effective: cook with a little oil and finish the dish with a raw drizzle, just before serving.

How to use it in cooking, technique by technique

Every cooking method asks something different of the oil. Here is how to use it in everyday dishes.

• Soffritto: oil and aromatics in a cold pan, then gentle heat. Onion and garlic should soften, not burn.
• Pan-frying and sautéing: medium heat and short times. Better a little oil in the pan and a raw drizzle at the end than lots of oil over the heat.
• Oven: a thin film of oil before baking, the rest when it comes out, while the dish is still hot.
• Stews and braises: low heat and a lid, with some of the oil set aside for the end.
• Oil poaching and confit: fish and meat cooked submerged in oil at low temperature, for a tender texture. You will find the method in our guide to low-temperature oil poaching (in Italian).
• Frying: plenty of oil between 170 and 180 °C, a few pieces at a time, oil never reused. All the tips are in our article on frying with olive oil (in Italian).

Which extra virgin to use for cooking and which for dressing?

For cooking, a balanced extra virgin that does not overpower the ingredients works well, in the size you use every day. For dressing raw, make room for the more intense oils, such as the intense fruity monocultivar Coratina or, in autumn, the new oil: that is where their character really comes through.

As an everyday oil we recommend our medium fruity, monocultivar Peranzana: smooth and vegetal, it works well in the pan and raw on delicate dishes. The intense fruity monocultivar Coratina, with its bitterness and pungency, is at its best as the finishing touch.

For daily use, a larger size makes sense, such as tins, which protect the oil from light. And remember that oil keeps best in the dark and away from the stove: even the everyday bottle deserves a spot sheltered from heat.

One bottle, two gestures

The two bottles in the kitchen can become one. Extra virgin stands up to the heat when you treat it with care: the right flame, short times, always fresh oil.

Heat does take something away, it is true. That is why the final gesture matters: a raw drizzle, just before bringing the dish to the table, restores aroma and character. In the kitchen, extra virgin should not be spared, it should be used well.

Frequently asked questions

Can you fry with extra virgin olive oil? Yes. For home frying, the guidelines indicate an ideal temperature of 170-180 °C, plenty of oil and never reused. Under these conditions extra virgin is a good choice and gives fried food a richer flavor.

Do the calories in oil change with cooking? No. One gram of oil provides about 9 kcal, raw or cooked. What changes, if anything, is how much oil the food absorbs: frying done well, at high temperature and quickly, absorbs little.

Is extra virgin olive oil or seed oil better for cooking? For everyday cooking, extra virgin is more stable than most seed oils, which are rich in polyunsaturated fats that oxidize more easily. The exceptions are a few oils, such as peanut oil, which holds up well at high temperatures.

Can you reuse oil after cooking? No. Oil already used for frying has broken down, and if you heat it again it gets even worse. Let it cool and take it to a used cooking oil collection point.

What happens if the oil smokes? Smoke is the sign that the oil has gone past the right temperature and is starting to break down. Turn off the heat, let the pan cool and start again with fresh oil, over a lower flame.

The information in this article is for general information purposes only and does not replace the advice of a doctor or nutritionist.